St. Augustine is the lawn people imagine when they picture a soft, wide-bladed, coastal green carpet that can handle heat without blinking. It thrives in Florida and the Gulf Coast, does reasonably well in humid parts of the Carolinas and Texas, and shrugs off salt spray where other grasses sulk. What catches newcomers off guard isn’t the installation process, it’s the cadence of care in the first year and how mowing ties into water, fertility, and shade. Miss the rhythm, and you spend months nursing a patchy quilt. Get it right, and the lawn settles in fast, resists weeds by sheer density, and asks for less fuss over time.
I’ve overseen St. Augustine sod on everything from postage-stamp backyards to community entrances with long medians. What follows is the schedule I rely on, tailored for warm-season zones and especially relevant for Central Florida homeowners considering sod installation Winter Haven projects with local crews like Travis Resmondo Sod installation. The names matter because timing, irrigation rules, and pest pressures shift block by block. But the principles travel.
What makes St. Augustine different
A lawn isn’t a monolith. St. Augustine has distinct traits that dictate how you mow and maintain it.
- Broad blades and high leaf area. It needs a slightly higher cut to keep enough green tissue for photosynthesis and to shade the soil. Thick stolons. Rather than tillers like fescue, St. Augustine spreads over the surface. That’s great for fill-in, but it also means mower scalps and heavy foot traffic bruise runners and stall growth. Shade tolerance that’s real but not magic. It outperforms Bermuda and zoysia under trees, yet it still wants a few hours of filtered light. In deep shade, mowing height and irrigation become delicate. Soft spot for chinch bugs and take-all root rot. These two issues flare with stressed turf, especially when mowing is too low and nitrogen is out of balance. Salt tolerance better than most turfgrasses. If you are near the coast, St. Augustine keeps color with less leaf burn, but it still needs fresh water flushing after storm events.
Those traits are why a blanket “mow weekly at 2 inches” recipe fails. St. Augustine prefers higher cuts, fewer shocks, and steady, moderate feeding.
The first 60 days after sod installation
That first stretch locks in future success. The roots need moisture and oxygen, not mud. The blades need time to knit without a mower shaving the energy off. Timing here is tight, especially in Florida’s warm months.
Watering schedule, week by week:
- Days 1 to 7: Keep the sod and top one inch of soil damp, not squishy. For most lots, that means two to three short irrigation cycles per day, five to ten minutes each, depending on head type and sun exposure. If you see water puddling at the seams, back off and split cycles further. Days 8 to 14: Reduce to once daily in the morning. Extend runtime enough to push moisture to two to three inches, which encourages roots to chase it down. Days 15 to 30: Shift to every other day, early morning. Watch for edges curling or footprints that linger, both signs the turf wants more depth per session rather than more frequency. Days 31 to 60: Move toward a typical lawn schedule for your climate, usually two deep waterings per week in summer and once per week in spring or fall, subject to rain and local rules.
The first mow arrives later than many expect. Test with a tug at the corners. When the sod resists a gentle lift and the grass is taller than the target height by about a third, it’s ready. In warm weather, that’s usually 12 to 18 days after installation. In cooler months, it lakeland sod installation can stretch to three or even four weeks. Set the mower high for the first pass and use a sharp blade. Dull blades tear new leaves and invite disease.
I’ve walked properties where eager owners mowed on day five. The wheels pressed seams apart and the deck scalped crowns. The lawn took another month to recover. Resist the urge. The first mow is a test of patience, not a haircut.
Mowing height and frequency by season
St. Augustine varieties differ slightly, but most residential sod is Floratam, Palmetto, CitraBlue, or Raleigh. These recommendations fit them all with minor tweaks. If your lawn sits under heavy oak shade, favor the top end of the ranges. In full sun, mid-range is ideal.
Spring: Raise, then settle. As growth wakes up, set height at 3.5 to 4 inches for Floratam and 3 to 3.5 inches for Palmetto or CitraBlue. Mow when removing no more than a third of the leaf blade, which often means every 7 to 10 days once the soil warms. This higher cut protects roots from late cool snaps and suppresses spring weeds by shading the soil.
Summer: Maintain and defend. Heat drives fast growth, so frequency increases. Hold Floratam at 3.5 to 4 inches and other cultivars at about 3 to 3.5 inches. If rain is steady and fertility is strong, you may mow every 5 to 7 days. Stay vigilant with blade sharpness, because torn tissue under summer humidity invites disease. If you travel, raise the deck a notch before you leave and again on the first mow after you return to avoid scalping overgrown areas.
Fall: Ease down, not off. Growth slows with shorter days. Keep the same height for September, then consider dropping a half inch in late October if nights cool in your area. Mowing frequency typically stretches to every 10 to 14 days. Never chase a perfectly even look by mowing too low as growth wanes. That’s when take-all root rot sneaks in.
Winter in frost-free zones: Minimal but consistent. In Central Florida and similar climates, St. Augustine may keep color and need a light trim Travis Resmondo Sod Inc travis remondo sod installation every 2 to 4 weeks. Keep the deck high. Winter scalps thin the canopy and increase weed pressure in February.
Winter in marginal zones: Protect the crown. If your area sees regular frost, avoid mowing frozen or frost-laden turf. Let it dry by late morning. Maintain height toward the upper end to insulate crowns. If St. Augustine goes partially dormant, mow only to remove seedheads or to tidy uneven patches.
Edge cases: Shaded lawns absolutely prefer higher mowing heights. I have customers who run Palmetto at 4 inches in dense oak shade and report fewer bare spots. The trade-off is a slightly softer, more cushiony feel underfoot. On slopes or along curbs where the mower deck tends to tilt and scalp, err on the high side or use a lightweight push mower for those edges.
The one-third rule is real
Every turf pro recites it for a reason. Removing more than a third of the leaf at one time shocks St. Augustine. The fallout looks subtle at first, then it spirals. You see pale-green patches, runners exposed, the soil heats up, and weeds find light. You compensate with heavier watering and fertilizer, which primes disease. Stick to the rule and most of your problems stay small and manageable.
The rule forces a rhythm. If rain and heat push growth, increase mowing frequency rather than dropping the deck lower. When life crowds the schedule, raise the deck before you mow a taller stand. Two conservative cuts a few days apart are gentler than a single aggressive pass.
Fertility that feeds density, not thatch
St. Augustine likes steady nitrogen but not surges. Most established lawns respond well to 2 to 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, spread across three to five applications depending on your climate. In Central Florida, a common rhythm is March or April, June, August, and October, adjusting for municipal blackout periods near water bodies. If you’re in a restricted area, use slow-release formulations or plan feedings before and after blackout windows as permitted.
New sod doesn’t want heavy nitrogen in the first month. Focus on rooting first. A starter fertilizer with modest nitrogen and balanced phosphorus and potassium at installation can help if soil tests suggest a need. After 30 to 45 days, a slow-release nitrogen source at 0.5 to 0.75 pounds per 1,000 square feet kickstarts top growth without a flush. Follow the label and water it in.
I’ve seen homeowners crank a soluble high-nitrogen product every two weeks after sod installation and wonder why chinch bugs showed up and gray leaf spot followed. Too much quick nitrogen softens tissue and invites pests. Slow and steady fits St. Augustine’s physiology.
Iron is your friend for color without growth. If the lawn looks a bit chlorotic in summer heat but the growth rate is adequate, a chelated iron application brings back the blue-green without pushing blade length. It’s a simple lever that many forget.
Watering that pairs with mowing
The best mowing program stalls if the soil sits either soggy or bone-dry. Deep, infrequent irrigation trains roots down and stabilizes the schedule. For established St. Augustine on typical Florida sands, one inch of water per week split into two half-inch sessions is a good baseline in summer. In spring and fall, one deep weekly watering often suffices, particularly on shaded sites.
Measure what you apply. Tuna or cat food cans spread around the yard catch spray, and you can time run cycles until each collects half an inch. High spots dry first and often need a few more minutes. Curbs with reflected heat dry fast too. Where city rules limit frequency, extend run times to reach the same seasonal depth.
Match irrigation to mowing day. Water early morning on non-mowing days when possible. Mow later in the day after leaves have dried to limit disease spread and clumping. If you must mow after irrigation or rain, lift the deck slightly and clean the underside of the mower afterward to prevent sour-smelling buildup that spreads pathogens and dulls blades.
Weed pressure and the mowing line
A dense St. Augustine canopy smothers many weeds on its own. The mowing height is your first herbicide. Too low, and light reaches the soil surface. You’ll see spurge, doveweed, and crabgrass accelerate. Too high for too long, and St. Augustine can develop more thatch and lose some vigor, giving dollarweed an opening in wet spots.
Pre-emergent herbicides help in early spring and early fall, but timing depends on soil temperature and local regulations. In Central Florida, a split application late February to early March, then again in late September, often aligns well. Choose products labeled for St. Augustine and avoid mixing herbicide and fertilizer unless you’re confident both are right for that moment. After sod installation, wait until the lawn has been mowed at least three to four times before using most herbicides, unless the label explicitly allows earlier use.
Hand-pull weeds at seams during the first month. It keeps roots from competing right where your sod needs them most. A few minutes every couple of evenings saves you a full-blown post-emergent program later.
Dealing with pests and disease without overreacting
Chinch bugs love hot, dry, sunny stretches and St. Augustine blades rich in soluble nitrogen. They cluster along sidewalks and driveway edges first. If you see patchy straw-colored areas that don’t perk up after watering, get on your knees and part the grass. Look for small, fast-moving insects with black and white patterns near the thatch. Treat promptly with a product labeled for chinch bugs and rotate modes of action across the season to prevent resistance. Keep your mowing height steady to reduce stress, and avoid applying a big slug of nitrogen right before the hottest spells.
Take-all root rot and gray leaf spot behave differently. Both find leverage in overwatered, compacted, or scalped areas. Set the deck high, sharpen blades, and space out irrigation. If you suspect disease, send a sample to a local lab or extension office. In Florida, county extension agents see these issues daily and will save you time and guesswork. Fungicides have their place, but cultural fixes matter more and last longer.
Thatch and aeration: when and how
St. Augustine can accumulate thatch if overfed or mowed too low. A half inch of thatch is acceptable and even protective. Beyond that, water and nutrients hang up in the mat, and the mower rides on a cushion that scalps the crowns. If your lawn feels spongy underfoot and springs back like a mattress, check thatch depth by cutting a small triangular plug.
For sandy soils typical around Winter Haven, core aeration every one to two years helps. Time it for active growth and warm weather so the turf recovers quickly, usually late spring through mid-summer. Leave the cores to break down, then mow as usual. I don’t recommend aggressive vertical dethatching on St. Augustine unless a professional determines it’s necessary. It can be a shock. Light power raking at a high setting can help in problem areas, but test a small zone first.
Shade, trees, and reality checks
St. Augustine’s shade tolerance spares many Florida lawns under live oaks and pines, but there are limits. If your yard gets fewer than three to four hours of filtered light, even St. Augustine thins. Raise the mowing height to the upper end. Reduce nitrogen slightly, which discourages soft, lanky growth that topples. Focus on deeper, less frequent irrigation to keep roots searching down rather than sitting shallow under leaf litter. Thin tree branches where allowed to increase dappled light. In a few yards, groundcover plants simply outperform turf under dense canopies. Knowing when to switch is a mark of maturity, not defeat.
A month-by-month cadence for the first year
Every expert advice by Travis Remondo on sod installation site is different, but a practical calendar helps. For a sod installation in late spring around Winter Haven, the pattern looks like this:
- Month 1: Frequent light watering, then taper. No fertilizer unless a mild starter was applied at installation. First mow at high setting when roots grip. Keep foot traffic low. Month 2: Shift to deep, less frequent irrigation. First slow-release nitrogen feeding at a low rate. Mow weekly at recommended heights. Spot-pull weeds as they appear near seams. Month 3: Maintain mowing frequency, sharpen blades. Pre-emergent window may have passed, so focus on density. Address any hot edges along pavement with a touch more water. Check for chinch bugs on south and west exposures. Months 4 to 6: Summer discipline. Keep mowing heights steady. Apply slow-release nitrogen at a conservative rate. Consider an iron application for color. Monitor for pests during heat waves and rotate insecticides if needed. Month 7: If growth is strong, a light feeding may be warranted, especially after heavy rains leach nutrients. Aerate if compaction is evident and temperatures are stable. Months 8 to 9: Late summer into early fall. Maintain height, stretch mowing intervals as growth slows. A split pre-emergent application in late September can prevent fall weeds. Ease off nitrogen as nights cool. Months 10 to 12: Fall into winter. Water less often with deeper cycles. Mow only when necessary, keeping the deck high. Address any lingering thin spots with plugs cut from healthy sections rather than seed, since St. Augustine is not seeded for residential lawns.
By the one-year mark, a good St. Augustine lawn behaves predictably. You adjust for rain and heat, but the core schedule holds.
Working with a pro without losing control
There is value in partnering with a local outfit that knows the quirks of your neighborhood’s water pressure, reclaimed lines, and HOA rules. Contractors like Travis Resmondo Sod installation, who frequently work in Polk County and the surrounding areas, understand soil prep nuances and the timing of municipal watering restrictions. If you hire a crew, ask for details on the soil base, whether they’re using washed or unwashed sod, and how they plan the first two weeks of irrigation.
You still own the rhythm after they leave. Confirm mower height settings with whoever cuts your lawn. Some crews default to a one-size-fits-all setting designed for Bermuda or zoysia, which is too low for St. Augustine. Mark the deck height on the mower and spot check after service. A half inch can be the difference between lush and stressed.
Troubleshooting common issues
Uneven color or striping that persists: Check the mower blade. St. Augustine exaggerates a dull blade’s tearing, which reflects light differently and reads as pale stripes. Replace or sharpen the blade every 20 to 25 mowing hours. In sandy soils, that interval shortens.
Seams opening up weeks after installation: Usually irrigation distribution or wheel traffic. Adjust sprinkler coverage to eliminate dry streaks. For thin lines, topdress lightly with screened sand and water deeply. Avoid heavy rolling, which compacts soil and hurts roots.
Mushrooms after heavy rain: A sign of organic breakdown, not necessarily a disease. Mow them off and improve airflow. They disappear as the soil dries. If they return constantly in patches with a soft feel, check for thatch and consider aeration.
Persistent weeds in new sod: Sod fields sometimes harbor a few species that emerge after transplant. If you’re within 60 to 90 days of installation, be cautious with herbicides. Hand removal and spot treatments with products labeled safe for St. Augustine are better than blanket sprays in the first season. Once the lawn has been mowed several times and is actively growing, your options widen.
Brown patch or circular decline in cooler months: Avoid late-day watering. Keep blades sharp and mowing height steady at the higher end. If lesions appear on leaves or the patches expand after rain, consult local extension guidance before applying fungicide.
Tools and small habits that pay off
A simple mower height gauge or even a ruler makes your settings precise rather than guesswork. Swap blades seasonally. Clean the deck regularly to prevent clumps and disease spread. Keep a notebook or app log of mow dates, height, rain events, and any products applied. Patterns emerge. For example, you may learn that a heavy June rain routinely follows your feeding window, so you shift that application earlier or use a higher percentage slow-release source.
A soil test every other year will tell you if your pH is drifting or if potassium has been pulled down by frequent irrigation. St. Augustine prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH, roughly 6.0 to 7.5, with many Florida lawns sitting near the upper range. If pH skews high and micronutrients become less available, iron supplements become more useful.
When to adjust and when to hold
St. Augustine rewards consistency more than clever tweaks. Make changes for reasons you can point to. If foot traffic increases because the kids started soccer in the backyard, raise the height a notch and add a mid-summer iron application rather than cranking nitrogen. If shade deepens as trees leaf out, reduce watering frequency and keep height high. If you install a new irrigation controller, run catch-can tests again. Don’t assume factory defaults match your lawn’s needs.
Some lawns plateau below perfect, and that’s fine. A few thin spots near a north fence in winter may never fully fill. You can fight that edge for years or accept a tidy border of mulch and native plants. The rest of the lawn will thank you as resources concentrate where grass wants to thrive.
A word on regional nuance
If you’re reading this from Winter Haven or nearby, you deal with sandy soils that drain fast, reclaimed water with variable nutrient content, and a growing season that rarely sleeps. That combination favors St. Augustine, especially Floratam, which handles heat well. It also means your mowing calendar is nearly year-round and blade sharpness matters more because sand dulls edges quickly. The local rainfall pattern can flip in a week, from afternoon storms to dry, windy days. Build flexibility into your schedule rather than a rigid date-based plan.
If you live farther north where frosts linger, you’ll mow less often in winter and watch for spring green-up as your cue to resume feeding. Raleigh St. Augustine tolerates cooler nights a bit better than Floratam, but it still wants warmth before it moves.
Bringing it together
The best St. Augustine lawns aren’t necessarily the ones that get the most attention. They are the ones that follow a sound, steady mowing and maintenance rhythm. Start slow after sod installation, give roots room to run, mow high and often enough to respect the one-third rule, and feed in measured doses. Water deeply, not constantly. Keep the blade sharp. That’s the backbone.
If you’re planning sod installation Winter Haven projects, give a local pro like Travis Resmondo Sod installation a call for site prep and layout, then take ownership of the weekly decisions that matter. With St. Augustine, the difference between average and outstanding is less about expensive products and more about a mower deck set half an inch higher, a watering cycle moved to early morning, and a patient first mow. Do those simple things on schedule, and the lawn will repay sod installation you with thick, cool blades that stand up to summer feet and keep their color well into the shoulder seasons.
One last note for searchers puzzled by mixed spellings they’ve seen online: if you came here looking for St augustine sod i9nstallation, you’re in the right place. The turf is forgiving of typos, as long as the mower height isn’t.
Travis Resmondo Sod inc
Address: 28995 US-27, Dundee, FL 33838
Phone +18636766109
FAQ About Sod Installation
What should you put down before sod?
Before laying sod, you should prepare the soil by removing existing grass and weeds, tilling the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches, adding a layer of quality topsoil or compost to improve soil structure, leveling and grading the area for proper drainage, and applying a starter fertilizer to help establish strong root growth.
What is the best month to lay sod?
The best months to lay sod are during the cooler growing seasons of early fall (September-October) or spring (March-May), when temperatures are moderate and rainfall is more consistent. In Lakeland, Florida, fall and early spring are ideal because the milder weather reduces stress on new sod and promotes better root establishment before the intense summer heat arrives.
Can I just lay sod on dirt?
While you can technically lay sod directly on dirt, it's not recommended for best results. The existing dirt should be properly prepared by tilling, adding amendments like compost or topsoil to improve quality, leveling the surface, and ensuring good drainage. Simply placing sod on unprepared dirt often leads to poor root development, uneven growth, and increased risk of failure.
Is October too late for sod?
October is not too late for sod installation in most regions, and it's actually one of the best months to lay sod. In Lakeland, Florida, October offers ideal conditions with cooler temperatures and the approach of the milder winter season, giving the sod plenty of time to establish roots before any temperature extremes. The reduced heat stress and typically adequate moisture make October an excellent choice for sod installation.
Is laying sod difficult for beginners?
Laying sod is moderately challenging for beginners but definitely achievable with proper preparation and attention to detail. The most difficult aspects are the physical labor involved in site preparation, ensuring proper soil grading and leveling, working quickly since sod is perishable and should be installed within 24 hours of delivery, and maintaining the correct watering schedule after installation. However, with good planning, the right tools, and following best practices, most DIY homeowners can successfully install sod on their own.
Is 2 inches of topsoil enough to grow grass?
Two inches of topsoil is the minimum depth for growing grass, but it may not be sufficient for optimal, long-term lawn health. For better results, 4-6 inches of quality topsoil is recommended, as this provides adequate depth for strong root development, better moisture retention, and improved nutrient availability. If you're working with only 2 inches, the grass can grow but may struggle during drought conditions and require more frequent watering and fertilization.